Thread to Needle Relationships
| Thread Type | Thread Size | Needle Size | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Large eye | Standard eye | ||||
| Rayon | 60 | 65 | 9 | 60 | 8 |
| Cotton | 50 | 65 | 9 | 65 | 9 |
| Rayon/Polyester | 40 | 75 | 11 | 75 | 11 |
| Metallic | 50 | 65 | 9 | 75 | 11 |
| Metallic | 40 | 75 | 11 | 80 | 12 |
| Rayon/Poly/Cotton | 30 | 75 | 11 | 80 | 12 |
| Metallic | 30 | 75 | 11 | 90 | 14 |
| Metallic | 20 | 90 | 14 | 100 | 16 |
| Rayon/Wool | 12 | 100 | 14 | 120 | 18 |
Needle Type Abbreviations
| SES | fine ballpoint |
| SKL | semi-ballpoint |
| BP | full ballpoint |
| MBP | med ballpoint |
| MSP | med sharp point |
| SUK | med ballpoint |
| SKF | heavy ballpoint |
Garment to Needle Recommendations
| Fabric | Needle Size | Needle Point |
|---|---|---|
| Very Lightweight/Transparent Fabrics (lingerie, silks) | 65/9 to 70/10 | Sharp or light ballpoint |
| Lightweight woven fabrics (dress shirts) | 70/10 to 80/12 | Sharp |
| Satin, nylon, spandex | 70/10 to 80/12 | Sharp or light ballpoint |
| Medium-weight woven (wool) | 80/12 to 90/14 | Sharp |
| Knit fabrics (fleece) | 70/10 to 80/12 | Light or med ballpoint |
| Elastics | 70/10 to 80/12 | Light or med ballpoint |
| Heavyweight fabrics (canvas, denim) | 80/12 to 90/14 | Sharp |
| Coated or waterproof fabrics | 80/12or Teflon | Sharp or light ballpoint |
| Leather | 80/12 to 90/14 | Sharp or wedge point |
Needle Anatomy
Butt: the blunt end or the needle
Shank: the part of the needle that attaches to the machine
Taper: the sloped area of the needle between the blade & shank
Long Groove: protects & guides the thread as the needle enters the fabric
Blade: the main part of the needle, this is the part that is measured to determine the needle size (diameter)
Scarf: a clear area about the eye or the needle that creates a space for the hook to pick up the thread loop.
Eye: the opening in the needle that the thread goes through
Point Groove: indentation that keeps the thread at a 90-degree angle from the eye (may not be noticeable in small needles)
Point:the sharp point that enters the fabric first
Needle Hole Info
16x231 – standard eye needle, smaller eye creates a little more tension on thread
DBxK5 – the most commonly used hole size 25% larger than standard, larger groove for better thread protection, longer scarf for more room for the hook to pick up the thread loop.
DBx9ST – a larger hole than the DBxK5
DBx7ST – 1.8 millimeter long rectangular eye specifically for metallic thread
287WKH – standard size eye, shorter point, good for designs with long stitch lengths & extra thick backing.
287WH – has a straight blade, used for delicate materials & knits
Misc. Info
Sharp needles are best for tightly woven materials & caps.
Ballpoints are best for knits & are good multipurpose needles.
Tri-tip points are good for leather.
Most needles are chrome plated, but titanium nitride coating adds strength, & Teflon coating reduces friction & thread breaks.